Case study – Development of an instrumental method for testing cosmetic powder compacts

Sector: Cosmetics

RHEONIS internal innovation

Project duration: 6 months

The use of powders compact cosmetics such as eyeshadow, is generally done with a brush, brush or finger. Their covering power is generally analyzed from the angle of sensory analysis.

To our knowledge, no instrumental technique can quantify these phenomena. We therefore decided to remedy this within the framework of an internship in order to have a tool for the study of cosmetic compacts that means ofapplication.

Design and develop an instrumental method for simulating brush loading and powder application

RHEONIS has implemented its expertise in instrument design, in the development of measurement protocols, in friction mechanics and its skills in image analysis in a medium-term study approach:

  1. Bibliographic studies
  2. Brainstorming and functional analysis
  3. Mechanical design of a module adaptable to a rheometer
  4. Preliminary tests
  5. Implementation of brush loading and paper application protocols
  6. Implementation of image processing protocols
  7. Adjustment and validation on a range of brushes
  8. Systematic trials & study of correlations
  9. Interpretation of data and conclusions on the consistency of the test
  10. Additional tests and validation

Intervention System Gauge

Product & Ingredient 40%
Process & Application 70%
Measurement & Instrumentation 100%
Methods for Industry 100%

Test the compacts, the grip and the application of the powders but also the performance of the brush

device-rheometer-brush-powdersrheometer-brush-compact-powders-application

The test module developed to be adapted on a rheometer makes it possible to quantify the interactions between the compact and a brush, but also between the brush and an application medium. Complementary image analysis approaches make it possible to refine the interpretation of brush loading and deposit phenomena. The technique is functional for comparing cosmetic compacts, brushes and other devices. Improvements are possible to make it a predictive technique linked to sensory analysis.

The advantages of the approach for compact powders and their application with a brush

Instrumental technique and implementation protocols validated

Internalizable on customer rheometric equipment

Suitable for the study of cosmetic compacts

Suitable for the study of application devices

Suitable for more in-depth studies related to the sensory

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Last Updated on February 14, 2022 by Vincent Billot